In Which I Owe the Argentine Government $14 (Spoiler, $42)
Detailing the most rookie of mistakes, which you, upon reading this, will not make. Considering the number of borders I've crossed in my life, I consider the fact that I've gotten this far a minor miracle. Also, photos, and Patagonia love. When I planned my trip to,...
Tales of a Very Aggressive Vegetable in Suriname
In the stultifying heat of Paramaribo, Celeste and I needed lunch. It what our first day together in this city that we both happen to love, for no real reason except that everything about it says, "hey, why are you here?" and "welcome." Everything from...
Feria report, with tomatoes with real tomato taste
There are times when you go to the feria obligado, you go because you have to, because when you open the fridge there is more space than stuff, and when dinnertime comes, you think, "I could eat rice and yogurt and lemon pickle." (Just me?) Then there are times that...
I give you: the beansnake, or the midweek Vega report
I was on my way home from the doctor today, for the long-fought asthmapalooza extravaganza, and decided to pop into the Vega. Bought a bunch of stuff, as I am wont to do, and rejoiced at the price of overripe tomatoes, because I am constitutionally incapable of...
The world tastes like so many things, Bogotá market report
You would be forgiven for thinking that all the things you have tasted fill the entire book of your palate's possible trigger points. That every taste could be described in terms of other tastes. That's what wine lovers will have you believe, with their hundred and...
How to make your casero smile (aka: feria report, pasamos agosto version)
Midweek feria visit! The weekends have been busy or I've had stuff to do early, and haven't got a chance to head down to the Vega of late, so my fridge was really hurting. However, spring has sprung, and so everyone and their brother is planning meals out of the house...
Three ways to eat an empanada, and from the middle ain’t one (Los 33)
I went to see Los 33 over the weekend, the movie about the Chilean miners who were pulled out of the mine, alive, in one of the world's most spectacular (and quite honestly, unexpected) mine rescues. There were 33 of them, and they lived in the area of the mine called...
Martinez de Rozas feria report, with bonus injuries and apartment insults
More than just a feria report. Snarky signs, culinary background, broken bones (or not) and everyone’s favorite, plumbing issues.
The Best Souvenir, part II, Madrid
It took me a long time to find it, the best souvenir of a trip to Madrid. I don't eat ham, and I don't believe it travels particularly well. I couldn't possibly contain the energy and giganticness and overtouristed and hot and sweaty and perfect glass of gazpacho at...
Hiking in a dreamed-of place on the Azores
Always. That's how long I've wanted to go to the Azores for. Well, for as long as I can remember. What brought you here is a common enough question whenever you go someplace slightly off the beaten path, but go to the Azores if you never get tired of that question....