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8M, the International Womens’ Day March in Santiago, Chile (a commemoration, not a celebration)

"Casi me emociono" said a woman standing next to me as I used the back of my hands to dry my own...
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In Which a Near-Dooring Leads to Tone Policing (tales of cycling and slang in Chile)

Yesterday, as I periodically do, when nearly killed by a flung-open taxi door a solid meter from...
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December Newly-Returned-to-Santiago Feria Kvell/Report

There is this piece of Smith family lore, by which I usually mean to introduce something false,...
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I might officially be Chilean

Something really big has happened. After fourteen years in Chile, something enormous has taken...
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Empanada hands and sausage fingers, language and food (para variar)

"My feet look like meat-filled pastries," said C, as she looked up at her legs, which were up on...
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December Newly-Returned-to-Santiago Feria Kvell/Report

There is this piece of Smith family lore, by which I usually mean to introduce something false, which I will later disprove or reframe, except in this case it's true. It tells of a time when I, fresh from a brutally cold winter in Santiago, landed in my mother's...

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I might officially be Chilean

Something really big has happened. After fourteen years in Chile, something enormous has taken place. I have not purchased a home, gotten married, had or adopted children. I have not applied for my Chilean passport, adopted (or had) a cat, nor have I decided to leave,...

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Late March Feria Haul, so much green!

I've had a weird couple of weeks, way more out than in, in the sense of being out of Santiago. First I cycled around Lago Llanquihue, which was spectacular in every way, except for the part where I took a spill that bruised a bone which left me very limpy, but still...

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Stomach snafu vs. peppers. Anyone want to place a bet?

Food is our great connector. No matter where you go, you can start a conversation about food and nearly everyone will have something to say about it. I think it's a fair assumption, judging by Facebook and Instagram (should I be following you? please leave me your...

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The woman who saved my artichoke

A different kind of feria report. As some of you may know, as I've mentioned it here, and in real life, I'm dealing with what I have referred to as a "stomach snafu." It seems to be histamine intolerance and I won't bore you with the details, but a lot of my formerly...

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