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December Newly-Returned-to-Santiago Feria Kvell/Report

There is this piece of Smith family lore, by which I usually mean to introduce something false,...
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I might officially be Chilean

Something really big has happened. After fourteen years in Chile, something enormous has taken...
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Empanada hands and sausage fingers, language and food (para variar)

"My feet look like meat-filled pastries," said C, as she looked up at her legs, which were up on...
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When a rat is not a rat, or more linguistic misadventures in Chile

First of all, in the photo there is not a rat  Or if there is it is small and hidden in the grass....
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Late March Feria Haul, so much green!

I've had a weird couple of weeks, way more out than in, in the sense of being out of Santiago....
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How to parse a sign in Spanglish

Today I am going to teach you how to parse a sign you see in Spanglish, and by parse, I mean consider how it came to be written how it is written, as opposed to in actual English, based on a previous knowledge of Spanish. Before I begin, I should mention that I...

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In Which I Owe the Argentine Government $14 (Spoiler, $42)

Detailing the most rookie of mistakes, which you, upon reading this, will not make. Considering the number of borders I've crossed in my life, I consider the fact that I've gotten this far a minor miracle. Also, photos, and Patagonia love. When I planned my trip to,...

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Tales of a Very Aggressive Vegetable in Suriname

In the stultifying heat of Paramaribo, Celeste and I needed lunch. It what our first day together in this city that we both happen to love, for no real reason except that everything about it says, "hey, why are you here?" and "welcome." Everything from...

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Feria report, with tomatoes with real tomato taste

There are times when you go to the feria obligado, you go because you have to, because when you open the fridge there is more space than stuff, and when dinnertime comes, you think, "I could eat rice and yogurt and lemon pickle." (Just me?) Then there are times that...

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Rethinking Valparaíso

If there's one city in Chile that I have a complicated relationship with, it's Valparaíso. On the one hand, it's an easy place to get to from Santiago, often sunny and cheerful, colorful and bright. On the other hand, it's impenetrably confusing, like a map had a baby...

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Chile food hack, s’mores version

My ire for those who search high and low for exact replicas of the homeland food products is irrationally great. Particularly when they are from the same place as me, and insist time after time after time that they must have: graham crackers! regular cheerios! or...

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When in doubt, make it yourself. The detergent report.

Amid recent reports of price fixing among of all things, toilet paper manufacturers, I return time and again to the things that are difficult, impossible or expensive to buy in Santiago. I had always noticed that toilet paper seemed disproportionately expensive, at...

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