Select Page

Tales from the Chilean road, La Serena

The first time I visited La Serena, a midsize city on the coast in the Norte Chico of Chile, about six hours by bus from Santiago, I was wholly unimpressed. First of all, it was winter, and therefore very quiet. The main plaza was also wrapped in construction fences,...

I’ve been censared. Censused? Incensed? Chile Census 2012

Earlier this year, Chile looked at its watch and realized, heavens, it’s been a long time since we counted our people. I wonder how many of us there are now? And what their floors are made of. And whether or not they compost. So they suited up many, many...

More polite than a person who accepts a quince as a gift

This is a membrillo. Or a quince, if you prefer. Judging by the trees it grows on, it must be related to apples and pears. It’s delicious cooked into a paste with a bunch of sugar and spread on bread. It’s also good baked. What is not great is membrillo...

Have you seen all of Chile?

I am often asked if I “know all of Chile” or have traveled most of it. Sort of yes and no. I mean, I’ve come in through the tippy top from Peru and been to Arica, which is far, far from home, and yet I’d never been up into the Aconcagua valley,...