A great miracle happened there
We were five. Two pint/tablespoon sized and three adults. I arrived early, bugged the hotel staff for a crib on several occasions, drank nearly a liter of water, figured out the cards in the slots for electricity, walked through the Mr. Rogers' neighborhood-like maze...
The mother of all stepfathers
A bevy of interesting things must have happened in 1981, but I remember only one. It was the year in which one member of the Smith family extravaganza that was science experiments and freakish foods and trips to Chinatown and long bikerides and hanging on the fence...
The Duke of Sandwich
I eat a lot of sandwiches in Chile. It's not because I have a great love for sandwiches, or even bread really, it's just that since I don't eat meat, and in many places pizza is an abomination before Italy, well, that sandwich, "es lo que hay" (it's what we got).I...
Mute Movies!
Yesterday I was out with some friends and we were talking about the power of music in movies. I couldn't tell you what we were listening to, but we all agreed it'd make a great chase scene or fleeing-fro-your-demons music.And then we came upon the topic of silent...
Shouting "fire!"
"Fire!" shouted a man sitting in a doorway about half a block off of Plaza Brasil. "Fire!" My friend and I looked at him quizically, wondering if it was possible to somehow be invisibly aflame. We also looked around for signs of smoke, firemen, something to indicate...
What’s up with the Halls?
This question was posed to me by some gringas that I'd met in Iquique, a city in the north of Chile known for its curvy beach lined with palm trees, swimmable water, its historical importance in salt mining, the ZoFri (duty free mall) and (by me), a plentiful supply...
cuppa tea
Not too terribly long ago I was struck with a spate of laziness. I wasn't too far from home, maybe a 30 minute walk, but I got on the bus anyway. This particular bus (the 505) runs down Santo Domingo, a narrow street with commerce and people and bustle and the bus...
The smell of a trip
There comes a time after a trip when every reasonable person must unpack their bag, backpack, wheelie suitcase or whathaveyou. I've been known to leave a bag lying around the house for a day or two while I contemplate the task. But not this time.As a person with a...
The ugly side of travelling (with disgusting details!)
There's this really ugly side of travelling that no one really wants to talk about. This is not an oblique reference to how dirty our clothes are, or how often we bypass a shower because it's just not worth it. This is about getting sick on the road. Overexposure to...
live from spda!
Here in the dusty outpost touristy town of San Pedro de Atacama, there are still a lot of street dogs, still alot of somewhat overpriced but high quality woven alpaca scarves and their cheaper and dubiously-alpaca glove brothers at the market next to where the famous...