Some time, ago, I’m guessing about five years, they redid the “bandejón central” (kind of like a long traffic island) that goes down the length of the Alameda, or the main street in Santiago from about the Moneda Palace down to Pajaritos, a distance of several kilometers. The change was that they put in a bike path. People know it’s there, and since I often ride up the Alameda from about the Los Héroes metro station (near which I live) to past the Moneda, with some regularity, what people shout out at me (as I am riding up the left side of the Alameda because the right side has busses and taxis pulling over every few feet to pick up and drop off passengers, and door unsuspecting cyclists) is the following:
Ciclovía!!!!! (bike path).
Sometimes it’s a hiss, which I write with hs where I hear them
sssscihclovhia.
And so, since I often can’t catch every driver to educate them on the why nots of the ciclovía, I thought I’d make a public announcement about this bike path, and why a cyclist might choose not to take it.
-The bike path meanders. Meanders, I tell you. It runs down the middle of the traffic island, and then juts out to the pedestrian-filled crosswalks, and then back to the middle. On every corner. For dozens of blocks. Annoying! And slooooow. I bike because a) I like it b) it’s good for me, accidents notwithstanding c) it’s cheap cheap cheap and d) it’s often faster than public transportation. For example, twice a week, I take a class up in La Reina (about 10 km/6 mi away). Biking there takes 41 minutes at a comfortable pace in traffic. On public transportation it would take me an hour, squeeze me uncomfortably and cost me a couple of bucks. It’s a good option if I’m sick or it’s raining, but otherwise, no thanks.
-Going west (which is the better direction to take it, and it shall become clear why in a moment) is downhill. The ramps that go down the stairs are nearly invisible. You have to be right on top of them to see where they are. Sometimes there are reflectors to that indicate their location, or sometimes just paint, but the paint wears away, and if you’re doing anything other than scanning the ground 20 feet in front of you, you are likely as not to miss the paint, and either come screeching to a halt before pitching over the stairs, or taking the stairs down on your fixie. This happened to a friend of mine. Most unpleased.
-Pedestrians also enjoy the use of the bike path. I have no problem with pedestrians walking. It’s what they do best. But they are often directly where the bikes are supposed to go, and get in the way, further slowing the cyclist to a snail’s pace.
Now let’s look at some particular features of the part of the bike path that is right near my house. The first photo is as the bike path is going over the norte-sur, or as you may know it, I-5, or the Panamerican Highway.
Here we have two of my favorite features of the bike path. First, there is a 90-degree turn (in a very small space), with no mirror, into a blind curve. So you may or may not get to hit another cyclist or pedestrian, which as you know, is worth many points in the video game of life, with a double bonus for someone carrying something heavy or expensive, which they then drop. I always imagine this with a cake, and me getting “pied” in the face. I hope it’s not mil hoja. That could hurt.
Second, sometimes I leave the house without showering. Luckily, there is a giant puddle I can ride through on my way anywhere (if I took this bike path, which I don’t), to get a good dousing on my way out. True, only when it rains, but it rains every winter. Not a surprise.
Also, I don’t take the puddle personally, as there is also a drainage problem in front of the Moneda, or the presidential palace. This is not part of the bike path, I just wanted to show you that the engineers who planned Santiago have equal disregard for cyclists as they do for the government.
Sorry, now we’re back to the bike path again. If you have neither splatted another human, nor gotten doused, there is always the opportunity that you can experience a new Spanish word, an encerrón! Encerrón is getting trapped, for the purposes of mugging. I think this tunnel is the perfect place for it, don’t you?
Now, traveling further east (and this is very undesirable, and you will soon see why), you will not have trouble seeing the ramps that go up the stairs, because they are right in front of you. Nor will you miss the moment that you enter the ramp, because in many places, poor application of concrete have led to the first 5 or so inches of the ramps having broken off (I like to call this the nose), leaving at times a 3-4 inch lip for you to bump over on your bike. On every block. Let’s have a look, shall we?
All this is to say, I love biking, and I even love biking in Santiago, but I do not love biking up the Alameda bike path. If you do, that’s your prerogative, but I’ll take the motorist’s cry of “ciclovía” over risking, life, limb, splatting, splashing, mugging, falling, and hurting a part of me that is very dear to me, every time I go over one of those mini-curblets where ramps used to be.
hahaha- good one Eileen! Love the video…
And after listening to Eileen tell me for ages just how bad some ciclovías are, I can fully attest that she does not exaggerate. I have to admit that I was really glad she was in the lead the day we tooled down the one on Alameda. I never, ever would have spotted those motocross jumps (err, unannounced drop offs) and would have been one splattered gringa in no time at all!
Still haven’t seen the one on Simón Bolívar, but the video makes it pretty clear that whoever designed it sure isn’t a bike fan!
Motocross jumps, nice one Margaret. Some are useful, like the one that goes up Santa Isabel. Shame I saw so many cyclists using it in the wrong direction the last time I took it. And the right turns in front of it, random cars, broken glass, etc. But it’s still better than many. And I use the Curico one all the time, despite how very narrow it is, and the bizarre turn it makes near Lira, I think it is.
The Simón Bolívar one has to be seen to be believed. Seriously. I ride parallel to it many nights. But nobody in Ñuñoa yells at me. Maybe they understand. Or maybe Ñuñoinos just aren’t as yelly.
I’m not as gutsy of a cyclist as you, so I used to take that ciclovia all the time instead of riding in the street. You’re so spot on about those dangerous, semi-invisible ramps! It wouldn’t be that bad if they were consistently placed (say, always on the right side of the steps), but it seems like planners designed the stretch near Los Heroes simply for the pleasure of making cyclists have to zig-zag like maniacs. I’m sure you’re also familiar with those treacherous spots around Union Latinoamericana where the bike path plunges down into what’s basically a right-turn lane for cars and then forces you conquer a steep, twisted uphill to get back onto the path. Pedal for your life!
All things considered, though, Almirante Latorre is way worse.
Reading this has made me nostalgic for biking in Santiago. I might just have to rent a bike during my upcoming stay!
Just saw your comment about the Santa Isabel ciclovia. The first time I used it, I had to swerve out of the way of a motorcycle that was speeding toward me in the wrong direction. As he passed, the driver shouted out, “This is for motorcycles!” Sheesh.
It used to be for motorcycles, about five years ago, but was still only one way, so he’s nuts. The Almirante Latorre bike path is actually the worst in the city, but no one takes it. I was with a friend and he was trying to wind his way through (this is a friend who can do trackstands, etc, very agile), and it was actually impossible to keep your bike on it. I don’t think anyone takes it though.
And you’re right about the twists and turns near ULA. It’s NUTS! If you come and rent a bike, let me know and we’ll play!
The vias I think are designed for late night urban bike races. Tony Hawk style, but Chilean and with a bike, complete with obstacles and all. You can wager on them at your local teletrack. I’ve just grown used to moving through Santiago’s streets. Just last week I cursed out a driver who honked at me for crossing the street with a green light to get to that via on Simon Bolivar. Bastard was shaving while driving, how classy…I still think they are better than nothing though. A classic case of “lo que hay.” The video is great.
Hi to all:
On Sánchez Fontecilla they made a new ciclovía. It is more or less well planned, except that in Bilbao the crossing is terrible. If you go South to North, on Bilbao there’s no way to follow over Sanchez Fontecilla, but taking a sharp turn, crossing Bilbao against the traffic and continue on the next block. Of course this happens because Bilbao is the border between La Reina and Providencia, and the officers of the 2 municipalidades will not take the time to coordinate.
Another gross mistake of this ciclovía: If you take it South to North, BEWARE the traffic light of Sanchez Fontecilla / Eliecer Parada. It is not well coordinated and it shows GREEN LIGHT for the biker but should actually be RED. It is extremely dangerous so check twice when crossing-.
I rode that one recently! Not bad, and feels almost suburban, lots of trees! Thanks for commenting!
oh, I didn’t notice that traffic light issue. Who can we talk to about fixing it? Also, there is a deep pothole/crevasse in the ciclovia on diagonal oriente, which is very poorly lit, and I hit it about once every week. I wish I could patch it myself, but since I can’t, any idea who I should call?