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June 30th Educational Reform Protest in Santiago

I saw a kid tenderly wipe lemon juice across another kid’s eyelashes today. That’s crazy, all of it. Kids (teenage boys) being tender to each other, that’s just Chile (when they’re not beating the crap out of each other or hurling homophobic...

La Guantera, a tale of linguistic innocence

It was nighttime on the local, speedbump-laden and dog-ridden highway from Chichen Itza back to the airport and we were in a rental car. There were three of us, my ex and I and a vegan guy named Chuck who ate mostly almonds the whole time we’d been in Cuba on a...

A Glacier and Some Reflection

It has been far too long since I’ve been up to Glaciar El Morado, a longish walk from a wide spot in the road up in Cajón de Maipo. It’s not fair of me to give directions, since I don’t drive and have never navigated there myself, but I’ve been...

HidroAysén Protests, take 2 (Friday, May 13th)

This is what my democracy looks like (debrief at the end). Here’s what happened: People got together in Plaza Italia (not clear if there were 30,000 throughout the length of Chile or 30,000 just in Santiago), then started marching down the Alameda. They were...

On the ground protesting with Patagonia Sin Represas

On Monday night while many of you were snug in front of your televisions, your computers, your latest issue of whatever magazine you can get there and I can’t get here, I was listening to the sound of shoe soles slapping the ground on the tiny side street of...