There are two foods that, despite the fact that they are not originally from Brooklyn, on which we Brooklynites (or ex-Brooklynites) consider ouselves to be experts. And they are pizza and bagels (but not pizza bagels, perish the thought!). There are also eggcreams, but a) that’s not really a food and b) I don’t think anyone under the age of 50 really likes them.
We have spoken here on the blog on many occasions about bagels, their presence or absence in Santiago and whether or not we would ever see a bagel shop again here in the capital. Read through the comments for more info on that. Recently a bagel shop opened in Viña, and I didn’t know anything about it, at the time except for the fact that someone I know had been there (updated with link at the bottom). But here in Santiago, we were still bagel-free, until just a couple of weeks ago.
On Saturday night I was headed out on my bike to Ñuñoa, first on the ciclovía on Santa Isabel, and then continuing on as the street turned into Diagonal Oriente, near Pedro de Valdivia. And as I careened by, I saw the words “Montreal Bagels.” Like so: (except I took this photo during the day).
And I thought back to a time, eons ago, when I was in Montreal and I climbed the big hill and marveled at all the languages people spoke there, and thought about how great it would be to spend spring, summer and fall in Montreal. And then I came down the hill and ate a bagel. Mmmm, bagel.
And so clearly, today being the end of Passover, a holiday I kind of didn’t really celebrate this year, I thought, I should go over to that bagel place and see what they’re all about.
Turns out they’re a Spanish/Russian Russian/Canadian couple, and they make bagels. And they sell Sorbete Letelier. To me this seemed an odd combination, but apparently there’s a cherry-flavored soda that people drink in Montreal while they eat bagels. Those crazy Quebecois! Maria (one of the owners) and I talked long and smiley, talking about translations and bagel recipes and whatnot. I took a phone call and while I was on the phone, an American woman from Connecticut came in and started piling bagels into a couple of bags. I panicked, but fresh bagels were on their way.
I bought a half-dozen, more sesame than poppy, because I’m like that, bid Maria a farewell and biked away. I had dreams of getting home and eating a bagel with cream cheese, kalamata (well, azapa) olives and maybe some tomato (lox being not exactly in abundance here). But the smell was too delicious, and I had to break into one on my ride. It’s only a little precarious to eat a bagel, ride a bike and take pictures of the bike path at the same time. No bagels were harmed in the ride, and no cyclists either.
The report? Ñami (yummy). A bit sweeter than what I know from home, to accomodate Chilean tastes, and a bigger hole than I’m used to, but that’s more traditional Russian, but the perfect dough texture, somewhere between doughy and cakey, but not at all tough. There are sesame and poppyseed, with the sesame being more popular, Maria says. You can call and order a passel, or bike by any time for piping fresh bagels (in Santiago, be still my glycemic index!).
Address: Diagonal Oriental 1915, near Pedro de Valdivia.
Tomorrow’s breakfast just got a whole lot more exciting. I’ve got cream cheese at the ready.
Disclaimer 1: I did tell Maria I was going to write about this, but of course paid for the bagels
Disclaimer 2: Point and shootage. I know, I know.
Edited to add: updated more bagel datos in Chile, this time in Viña del Mar. Blog post here.
THAT’S NEAR MY HOUSE!!! (Well, relatively). So excited! Great find, Eileen!
and I really just found it pedaling by. Reaon number 8 million to wander the streets on two wheels. When are we going out for a spin?
Also I was going to mention this but was too excited before, there was a guy selling the Sorbete Letelier outside Estadio Nacional before the U2 concert. If I wasn’t so concerned about the lack of bathroom for 7 hours I would have bought some to try, because I remembered your post. Also, a spin…I am busy up until May 8th…are you then going to the US? It might have to be when you get back.
still not sure on the dates, but I will let you know. Yay, spin! and sorbete letelier if you like!
Wait a sec, more than being shocked about bagels in Santiago, I´m shocked about the American woman from Connecticut that wasn´t me! Did you get her name? I thought you, me, and Abby were the only ones from the Northeast!
I´ll have to go scope it out this weekend!
Yeah, I asked her where she was from and she said “the united states” which gave me the feeling she thought I was Chilean. She’s blonde, 20-something maybe? she’s probably the person you can hear doing a happy dance every morning for brekkie. Said she’s been here two years. And yes, there doesn’t seem to be very much east coast contingent, though I met someone recently who’s been here for 10 years who is from Boston. And yes, scope away!
Alright, if you’re giving them your OK, I’m buying (both literally and figuratively). I’m a little hesitant about the sweet part but they look yummy and fresh and Ithink I can handle the Russian hole. Thanks for the dato!
A friend who has lived in Montreal and NY tells me that bagels are sweeter in Montreal. Tasty!
Nice find! I wish I could go and check it out.
I would never do it, but I wonder how hard it would be to make your own bagels? I made pretzels once and it wasn’t so bad…
I have made bagels thrice. The last time they didn’t come out very good. but the other two times they came out better (different recipe). Not hard, just time-consuming.
Bagels! Yummy! Glad to hear it!
Alesaandra- there are many more of us from the Northeast in Chile!
yes, many of us, it’s true!
I’ve opened a bagel-shop half a year ago in Vina del Mar…we have the real Manhattan- style bagel in 11 flavours! Next time y’all in Vina, make it worth your while and come visit us: 1 Poniente, between 9 and 10 Norte….
Dorothy, is Thursday or Friday of next week soon enough for you? I’m coming to Viña just to taste your bagels. Well, to do other stuff, too, but my plan is to hit up your place to try it out! I’m excited, but then what will I eat in the states that I simply cannot get here. Got any knishes? (kidding)
Ohhh next time I´m in Viña I´ll try it for sure. I´ll also try the Santiago “dato”, I´ve been hearing about baggels form quite some time, and feel ashamed to have never tasted them
I’m not even really sure if you’d like them! I was telling a friend the other day that if he moved to say, New Mexico, he’d learn to love the food there, but he’d always yearn for a fresh-from-the-oven marrequeta. Bagels taste like home to me. Objectively, I can’t say if you’d love them! What tastes like home to you (other than pan batido!)?
If it has cheese on it, I will like it. And by the way, melted cheese actually reminds me of my childhood, as a little groundhog ^^.
As a Temuco dweller myself, I think anything that smells or tastes a little smoky (merkén, mote, asados or bread), will remind me home, hahaha
mmmm, smoky! I love merquén. On queso fresco, it’s incredible! And yes, cheese is delicious, in all of its forms.
The bagels from Montreal are good! And so is the little queseria two doors down from it, La Lechería. They have philadelphia cream cheese and real butter and tasty cheeses.
Thanks for finding another thing that doesn’t need to be brought over from Melbourne – another bagel capital of the world! It leaves more room for Tim Tams. yay
If Mandita is smuggling in TimTams, there’s going to have to be some TimTam slammage in the near future! I’m hoping to head to Viña on Thursday with the specific goal of eating a bagel. Oh, freelance life, how I love you!
Oh the Tim Tam slam…you are indeed well versed in the best of culinary experiences! Good luck in Viña
My hosts in Auckland insisted. How could I resist? It was lovely, though I thiink my technique could use a little practice!
Just saw your blog and it’s great to know about a bagel shop in Santiago! I’m also a New Yorker and grew up eating bagels. Thanks a lot!
But do you remember egg creams? Thanks for commenting Elaine! That’s what people usually think my name is here, anyway.
Thanks a lot! I’m from Mtl and it really made my day.
and are you here in Santiago? Anyway, enjoy the bagels! Montreal’s beautifl. One day I’ll get back there!
Eileen, that is the best news I’ve heard today. I’ve been living here in Santiago since January of last year and that’s the one thing I request when people visit me from the States. Bagels.
Very nice blog – I stumbled on it while reading about HidroAysen. I noticed you’ve lived in Cuenca, Ecuador as well. That was the place I lived before here.
Hey Jon, Welcome aboard. Glad to put you in touch with bagels, and glad about all the press HidroAysen is getting. I’m even hearing from people outside of the area asking questions, which is great. Off to go check out your blog, which I already like, based on the name.
I am one of the owners of Montreal Bagel in Santiago. I am extremely thankful for all the comments here. It is hard to start a new business in a new country, but I believe – we will overcome. We certainly need a community support and so far we are getting it!
I promise to hold the quality of bagels and the service as good as it is possible. Thank you again.
Thanks Mark, did the guy from a radio show in Montreal call you? He contacted me for your phone number. Also someone posted a link to my blog post on chilespouses a giant group of expat women on a yahoo group that share info about what’s good (and not so good) in Chile. My traffic spiked that day. Hope yours did, too! Thanks for commenting!
thanks for the info! i just have to say … I’m under 50 and I LOVE egg creams! maybe I’m not _enough_ under 50 … Love your blog, it’s helping me prepare for Santiago … I have a list of places to check out, thanks to you!
Reminds me of when I found a good bagel in Laos. I posted it on Facebook and everyone told me I was crazy… Nice find!
oh all the expats here are totally nuts for the bagels, and the owners are lovely. There are a couple of other places to buy them, or I should stay, people to buy them from, and one other storefront in Viña del Mar, which is about two hours away. BTW, where in Laos if you remember? A friend just moved to Vientiane. Also, thanks for dropping by!
All this talk about Bagels…I’m a little late on the post, but what is the exact address of Montreal Bagels?
off the top of my head, I don’t know, but it’s diagonal oriente on the south side of the street, next to a cheese store, right before pedro de valdivia. Tell Mark and María I sent you! Also, thanks for popping in!
Re: Montreal Bagel – superb. Thank you for posting this information. We picked up a dozen, to freeze and enjoy. Had the sesame seed with some cream cheese, smoked salmon and capers, with fresh squeezed OJ on Sun AM.
As noted, Montreal Bagel also carries Sorbete Letelier which, although spouse in Canadian, we had never tasted. Delicious! It took me by surprise and we purchased 2 liters!
Mark is not only a gracious owner/proprietor, he is very knowledgeable, and shared various bits of information about his discoveries in Santiago.
One of our best discoveries is his shop.
Much gratitude for sharing the information!
Wow Catherine! I’m so glad you went, got some good bagels and a nice chat. Mark has great advice about food in Santiago, he and I agree quite a bit about places to go and what to eat and drink. Happy to share the datos, and thanks for stopping by to thank me. What a lovely way to end today’s work day!
The address of the bakery is…. drummsss!!! …
Santiago, Diagonal Oriente 1915 (on the corner of Marchant Pereira).
BTW, the building also houses a very decent cheese shop and tiny but exquisite meat deli by the name – Local Uno.
And of course Maria and I are very grateful for the kind words… Thanks a lot!
Thanks Mark, also I went to Wonderful Cafe last night and saw they’re carrying your bagels as well. Great partnership. Their coffee is tops. Thanks for popping in!
We have our own web page! Check it out and pass the word!
Thank you so much for sharing thin!
sorry, i ment “this”
What’s REALLY freaky about this place is the sign – they have COMPLETELY ripped off the design from Schwwartz’ restaurant on Boul. St. Laurent !!! Amazing.
Yes, Gary! We did it on purpose. First, it brings good memories to everybody who knows what Shwartz’s is. And secondly, we are not in the competition with them – just loving them!
Gracias por el dato!! I’m moving to Santiago all the way from SoCal in mid-May and will live in Ñuñoa. I love bagels (New York style ones) and I will check Montreal Bagels for sure!!
There are other bagels to be found, and in fact, this weekend, I’m going to a christening which will have bagels at the reception, and they’re different ones, available by order only. I will let you know how they are!