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You would think that the cold weather would inhibit the smelliness factor of say, a penguin colony, or a cormorant rookery, or a flummox of sealions (I made up the last one). You would be wrong. Big stink. Meaty, musky, amonnia-y. The wind shifts and the smell curls up and dies inside your nostrils. I can’t help but wonder if they sense our smell, too. Eeeew, they must be thinking. Granola breath… with yogurt. And mate, lots of mate.

But with faces like this, all can be forgiven (me to them, not them to me). Like puppies. Or bears. Or giant sea ferrets.