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Bah

Bah. This is what a Chilean says when he misspeaks. It’s not an oops, or an ooof, or even a whoa. It’s just bah. Not baaahh, like a sheep, more like you started to say the English word but and it got confused with the sheep sound. A sharper b, a shorter a....

The Fonda Report

This was the neon sign that greeted us at the entrance of Parque Iñes de Suarez in Providencia (not exactly the cheap seats) at the fonda. The neon sign depicts a man and woman dancing the cueca, which is the national dance. The whole dieciocho holiday is steeped in...

El dieciocho

This morning when I clicked on Google.cl, as one is wont to do here in this stringbean of a country, I noticed that the L in google had transformed itself into the Chilean flag. The Chilean flag bears a striking resemblance to the state flag of Texas, but be ye not...

The thing is…

If I start a sentence when I’m talking to you with “the thing is…” in English, you already know. You already know that I’m about to give you an excuse for why I can’t, or it couldn’t, or I won’t, or you shouldn’t....

What’s that big loud sound?

The thing that was so strange about the sound of plywood tumbling down an elevator shaft is that I was outside when it happened. Strange, I thought. And I kept pedalling. Through Barrio Yungay and beyond, through a quirky old part of Santiago that I love in a strange...

Tell me about your potato chips

Today at the supermarket I noticed that the geniuses in Lay’s potato chips marketing department were at it again. Of course they’ve noticed Chilean tastes. Chile’s not so tiny, after all, with 16 million inhabitants, most of them (us) with a hearty...